socializarea reprezinta temelia dresajului.nu trebuie sa confundam socializarea cu predresajul.si aici ,fara discutie, ca trebuie sa respectam anumite etape si anumite,,dozari''.mai intai trebuie sa mergi cu catelul in zone cu factori excitanti mai usori iar mai apoi sa mergem in zone cu factori mai puternici.
este gresita ideea ca un caine devine mai putin eficient in protectie reala daca este socializat prea mult.eficienta in aceasta munca depinde foarte mult de alte ingrediente.duritate,teritorialitate,independenta,agresivitate naturala si bineinteles dresaj.
cand un caine are aceste elemente va fi foarte bun in paza chiar daca parcurge un program frecvent si constant de socializare.
sa nu confundam ,,obisnuirea cu oamenii'' cu socializarea 100%.
obisnuirea cu oamenii reprezinta doar un segment din socializare.socializarea,,in totalitate'' inseamna obisnuirea cainelui cu tot ce inseamna ,,altceva'' decat ofera curtea casei sau zona unde-l plimb.doar in strada gasesti tot ceea ce -ti trebuie sa-ti inveti cainele cu ,,noul''.zgomote diverse,obiecte diverse(stationare sau in miscare la diferite viteze),oameni de diferite marimi si in diferite pozitii ale corpului etc. etc. etc.
din practica va spun ca am vazut caini foarte duri ,buni de paza si care erau scosi pe strada in mod frecvent.chiar eu l-am avut pe Rex.
as putea spune ca un caine tinut izolat va fi in mare dezavantaj in cazul unei situatii reale de protectie deoarece s-ar putea ca in timpul confruntarii sa apara un zgomot,un obiect etc.ce va reprezenta ceva total nou pentru caine ,ceea ce-l va face sa dea inapoi sau in cel mai fericit caz sa aiva o mica ezitare.ezitare ce poate fi speculata de agresor si-i va crea probleme cainelui.
Socialization is the very foundation of training. Let us not confuse socialization for pre-training. Surely when it comes to pre-training there are stages to follow as well. At first you have to take the pup through lower pressure factors and gradually build towards higher pressure conditions.
It is wrong to believe that a dog that is very socialized will be a less effective real guarding dog. Eficiency, in this case, is rooted in other factors; toughness, territoriality, independence, natural agression and of course, training.
When a dog has all these in place it will be a very good protection dog even when undergoing a continuous and frequent socialization.
Let's not mistake socialization for "contact with people" alone.
being around people is but one piece of the bigger picture. Total socializations consists of all those representing "something else" to the dog, other then the backyard or the area where he goes out for a walk with the owner. The best way to introduce the dog to the "new" is out on the street. Different sounds, different shapes / objects (stationing or moving at different speeds) peeople of different statures doing different things etc etc. Out of practice I will tell you I have seen many a hard dog, which were taken out on the streets frequently. I have done that myself with Rex.
I want to add that a dog being kept isolated will be dissadvantaged when dealing with a real guarding situation as during the confrontation new sounds may be involved or a new item / object, an element of the "new" to the dog which will cause the dog to maybe back off or in a happier situation to hesitate. But that hesitation could be scanned by the aggressor who will maybe capitalize on that.